On the Trail Poachers Who Illegally Snare China's Endangered Wild Birds.
The conservationist's eyes scan across vast expanses of open meadows, looking for suspicious activity in the pre-dawn darkness.
He speaks in less than a whisper as the team seeks a concealed position in the open area. Behind us, the vast metropolis of Beijing has yet to wake. As we wait, the only sound is our own breath.
Suddenly, as the sky turns a shade lighter ahead of sunrise, the sound of footsteps emerges. The hunters have arrived.
Trapped
Overhead, countless migratory birds, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are migrating south for winter.
They have taken advantage of the long summer days in northern regions, consuming bugs and berries. As the year winds down and icy winds bring the early cold of winter, they are flying to southern locales to nest and feed.
There are more than 1,500 bird species, representing roughly 13% of the world's total – more than 800 of those are migratory birds. Four of the nine major migration routes they follow intersect in China.
The patch of grassland where we were, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – any further and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among towering rows of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so delicate you can barely see them.
The one we nearly walked into was strung across half the length of the field and propped up with wooden sticks. At its center, a small finch was fighting hard to untangle itself, but the more it moved, the more its claws became tangled.
This was a meadow pipit, a protected bird in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – meaning if its population is healthy, so is its ecosystem.
Pursuing the Poachers
This activist, performs this duty for free using his own savings. He has given up on many sleeping hours to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last decade convincing the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"Back in 2015, there was little interest," he remarks.
So he enlisted helpers who were concerned and launched a group called the Bird Protection Unit. He held community gatherings and invited the heads of the relevant authorities. These consistent and determined acts of advocacy appear to have worked. The police discovered that catching poachers also led to uncovering other kinds of illegal operations.
"It became clear our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, while pointing out that implementation remains inconsistent.
His passion for avian life started in childhood. He was raised in the nineties in a distinct era for the city.
He recalls exploring the fields on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "But starting from the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This rapid urbanisation meant grasslands were viewed as empty places to build, not conservation areas to preserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the wildlife they housed.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I took this path," he says.
This has not made for an easy life. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who confronted me and assaulted me," Silva remembers. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not held accountable.
He has also lost his team of helpers over the years. This work requires patience and night vigils. Silva says not many are willing to take on the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"I do this full-time," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to address this major issue, you must devote yourself wholeheartedly. You can't do it part-time."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but donations have dipped because of the slowing economy.
So he has developed new ways to hunt the hunters.
He examines aerial photos to find the trails created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' flight paths and looks for areas where they may rest. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can capture scores of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species sell for a premium," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now quite wealthy."
Although there are environmental regulations in place, Silva believes the fines to punish the crime do not exceed the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the Qing dynasty. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages to display their birds.
It's a tradition that continues mainly among older individuals in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are breaking the law, or understand that so many more birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a caged bird.
"These individuals didn't even have enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have adopted the habit and custom of caging birds," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to raise awareness about ecology. Once people's attitudes are set, they're really hard to change."
Disrupted
Along a riverside path in Beijing, a vendor has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
Another man stands outside a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He tells passers-by discreetly that his songbird is valuable, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an old Beijing where informal vendors have created their own market.
The area by the river stretches for several miles and on a typical day, there were people looking at everything from vintage jewellery to false teeth.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be bought in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Music was blasting from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were performing a traditional dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had congregated with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were concealed by dark cloth.
But on this occasion there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were interviewing the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his